Tag Archives: Home Maintenance

Fall Fireplace Tips and Tricks

“Soon the weather will be cooling off and you’ll want to have a fire in the fireplace.  But you haven’t used it in 6 to 8 months.  Do you know what to check before you start using it again?  Check out this article and you’ll be ready!”

Denise Buck & Ed Johnson – DC Metro Realty Team

Original posted by American Home Shield

Is Your Fireplace Ready for Fall?

Is your fireplace ready for fall and winter weather? Before temperatures drop, learn what to do to prepare it, regardless of what type of fireplace you have.

Fireplace preparedness

Unless you live in a state where spring and summer temperatures can be frigid, chances are your fireplace is not getting the attention it needs right now. You may have dusted the pictures on your mantle, cleaned the brick facing or even spruced up your fireplace with a clean, modern design. But let’s face it – during the warm months, it’s easy to forget about your home’s hearth.

Once temperatures begin to drop, however, the best way to use a fireplace is to let it get back to doing what it does best. And that’s warming your rooms, creating a cozy environment and providing toasty indoor comfort on a wintry night.

Whether you have a gas or wood-burning unit, the following fireplace tips and tricks can help you make sure your fireplace is ready to go well in advance of the change in seasons.

Preparing your fireplace for use

Proper fireplace maintenance is always essential. Keeping your chimneys clean and clear – including the flues, smoke chambers, dampers and vents – is the best way to ensure your fireplace is ready for immediate use once the first cold snap hits.

The National Fire Protection Association recommends all homeowners have professional chimney cleaning done annually and before you light the first fire of the season. If you live in a cold climate or use your fireplace more often than average, noted home maintenance experts recommend a good cleaning after every 60 to 80 fires.

Professional chimney cleaners will also perform the kind of detailed inspection that you may not have the time or tools to do on your own. Their work helps keep your fireplace chimney free of buildup or debris that can impair its most critical functions – channeling smoke, carbon monoxide and airborne ash away from your home.

Related: Winterize Your Fireplace in Time for the Holidays

Wood-burning fireplace tips

A traditional wood-burning fireplace can be one of your home’s most attractive features. If you live in an older home, several wood-burning fireplaces may even be scattered throughout, warming and adding ambiance to different rooms.

While traditional fireplaces are generally safe, they also carry certain risks if not maintained properly. Before lighting the first fire of the season, be sure to check your fireplace for the following conditions.

  • Creosote buildup. Creosote is a toxic and highly flammable byproduct of burning wood that should be cleared if it is discovered in your chimney. If it ignites, the ensuing fire may quickly get out of control. Exposure to smoke from a creosote fire is also dangerous and can be harmful to your lungs and other organs.
  • Cracks or loose bricks. Hire a masonry professional to ensure your fireplace and chimney repairs are completed properly. Your mason can recommend brick and mortar materials designed to withstand extreme heat.
  • A missing or damaged chimney cap. If your chimney cap is not present or in good working condition, it may not prevent stray embers from igniting your home’s roof. The cap also deters birds from building a nest in the chimney and keeps out other animals and debris. If you have a multi-story house or your roof line is steep, check for the cap with binoculars and let the professionals climb up on the roof to replace it if needed.
  • Trees blocking the chimney. To keep tree branches and new growth from blocking the chimney and sending smoke back into your living room or bedroom, trim trees back as far as possible.

Gas fireplace tips

A gas-burning fireplace is simpler to use and maintain than its wood-burning counterpart but also requires annual inspection and attention — especially if it has sat idle for some time. The Chimney Safety Institute of America reports that gas fireplace vent issues are common. These issues can prove deadly if they are not addressed. Carbon monoxide can enter the home when fireplace vents are blocked or do not operate as expected.

If you notice any of the following signs, your gas fireplace may not be venting properly.

  • Dampness inside the home, specifically on walls (peeling wallpaper, paint blisters, etc.). Blocked vents can cause water vapor to condense inside the cooler flue.
  • Stains on the outside of the chimney, especially if they are white.
  • Erosion around mortar joints or crumbling bricks.

If you suspect a vent issue, don’t use your fireplace until it can be inspected by a professional. Visual evidence of a problem could be a signal that carbon monoxide is building up inside the house, so take action quickly.

Related: All You Need to Know About Ventless Fireplaces

How to heat your home with a fireplace

Some homeowners like the look, feel and sound of a fire, but view their fireplaces as more ornamental than functional. Other homeowners may rely on fireplaces for winter warmth and comfort. The best way to use a fireplace is mostly a matter of personal preference. If heating your home with a fireplace (or several) is a high priority, here are a few more fireplace tips and tricks to consider.

  • Make sure the flue damper is in good shape. If the damper doesn’t seal well, your home can lose a tremendous amount of heat, even when the fireplace isn’t in use.
  • Install a tempered glass door at the front of the firebox instead of using a movable screen as a barrier. Closing the doors will seal off the fireplace, keeping the warm air inside your home from being drafted back up through the chimney.
  • For wood-burning fireplaces, clean the inside of the firebox occasionally to remove sooty buildup and prime the area for additional fires. Doing so will ensure that accumulated ash and debris do not limit the amount of space left for new logs inside the firebox, allowing you to build bigger fires at colder times of the year. It can also help keep piled dry ash from drifting when the fire is out, staining your floors or carpets.

Not that you made the proper preparations, you should be ready to enjoy your fireplace. You should also be ready to read up on the other great pieces of advice available here on the “Home Matters” blog, such as how to build the perfect fire and how to give your fireplace an autumn makeover.

To-Dos: Your September Home Checklist

“Fall is right around the corner, so it’s time to start taking care of a few things around the house.  Check out these great tips for preparing for the colder weather to come.

Denise Buck & Ed Johnson – DC Metro Realty Team

Best Flooring From Consumer Reports’ Tests

“We are constantly asked about what type of floors homeowners should put in their homes.  The answer varies with where the floors are going, how they will be used and what your budget is.  This article from Consumer Reports, might just help you make a decision in the future.”

Denise Buck & Ed Johnson – DC Metro Realty Team

Best flooring

Flooring takes up a lot of real estate in any room, and given its visual impact, you’ll want to make sure it lasts more than a few years. But when you consider all the flooring options on the market, it can be tough to know which material to go with.

“Is there potential for moisture or spills? How much traffic will the space have,” says Joan Muratore, a senior test engineer who evaluates flooring for Consumer Reports, “Ease of cleaning and maintenance is something else to consider.”

MORE ON FLOORING
CR’s Complete Guide to Flooring
The Right Type of Flooring for Every Room
Best Vacuums for Hardwood Floors

If you need help thinking through the functional aspects of flooring, check out our buying guide to the best types of flooring for each room. If you already have a sense of which material you’re looking for, well, you’re almost there: Take a look below at our top picks in five categories of materials, based on CR’s extensive lab testing.

We test wear resistance by subjecting a 6-by-6-inch sample of each flooring material to an abrasion machine fitted with a fine sandpaper disc, and assessing each sample for signs of visible wear after each cycle of sanding.

To test a floor’s resistance to denting, we drop a heavy, blunt weight that has the same impact as a large can of tomatoes, plus smaller, lighter, pointier objects that serve as proxies for kitchen utensils. Our testers drop the weights from progressively higher release points, examining the flooring for visible denting after each drop. The higher the drop before damage becomes evident, the better a floor’s dent-resistance rating.

We evaluate potential for fading by exposing part of a sample of flooring to UV rays for two weeks straight, then comparing the exposed portion to an unexposed portion. This gives us information on what can happen to a section of flooring that gets more sunlight than the rest of a room over time.

Powering It, Fixing It, Protecting It

Get everything you need to know when it comes to your home.

Join

Should You Do It Yourself or Hire a Pro?

That depends on whether the material can be installed as a floating floor, or whether it should be nailed or glued into place.

With a floating floor, the pieces click together to create one large puzzle that can be installed right over an existing floor; its own weight will keep it from shifting, and the walls hold it in place. It has the advantage of being relatively easy to remove, which comes in handy if you make a mistake while you’re laying the floor or if you want to change it out for something different in the years to come. (We indicate which flooring can float in our extensive ratings.)

This approach doesn’t work with solid wood and porcelain tile—both of which get attached directly to a subfloor. (Wood is either nailed or glued, and tile is set in a bed of mortar.)

Below are CR’s top-scoring options for engineered wood, laminate, linoleum, prefinished solid wood, porcelain tile, and vinyl flooring, plus a runner-up in each category.

For a full picture of what’s available in the five categories below, check our ratings of more than 70 flooring products.

Prefinished Solid Wood Flooring

This flooring consists of factory-finished planks and is available in a variety of wood species. It can survive more scuffs than unfinished hardwood but designwise still add lots of warmth and character. As a whole, this category doesn’t do well when it comes to dent resistence—many in our ratings earn a Poor.

Lumber Liquidators Builder's Pride Select Pewter Gray Maple solid wood flooring
Lumber Liquidators Builder’s Pride Select Pewter Gray Maple solid wood flooring

Best: Lumber Liquidators Builder’s Pride Select Pewter Gray Maple 10040807
Price per square foot: $4.20
CR’s take: For several years, this Lumber Liquidators option has won the top spot in our ratings of prefinished solid wood flooring. It earns a rating of Excellent for resisting foot traffic and scratches, and it costs less than other top models. This flooring can be nailed or glued into place, depending on the subfloor material.

Runner-up: Armstrong Paragon Original Ember SAKP59L401
Price per square foot: $7
CR’s take: This is the only other model in this category that receives an Excellent rating for ability to resist wear from foot traffic. This flooring also does well in retaining its color when exposed to ultraviolet rays; it won’t fade as much as others might in sunny rooms. As for installation, it needs to be nailed down to a plywood subfloor.

Engineered Wood Flooring

Made from several layers of plywood bound together by adhesives and topped with a layer of solid wood, this floor type simulates the look and feel of hardwood, but has one important advantage: The plywood substrate makes each plank less susceptible to seasonal shrinking and swelling than solid wood, which minimizes gaps between boards that can appear in dry conditions. (We have no runner-up in this category because none of the other products tested well enough for CR to recommend.)

Harris Wood Traditions SpringLoc Red Oak Bridle engineered wood
Harris Wood Traditions SpringLoc Red Oak Bridle engineered wood

Best: Harris Wood Traditions SpringLoc Red Oak Bridle HE2505OK48
Price per square foot: $5.50
CR’s take: This engineered wood flooring can withstand the sun’s rays with the best of them, earning a rating of Excellent in our UV-resistance test. When challenged by foot traffic and denting, though, it earns a rating of only Fair, so it wouldn’t be a prudent choice for a high-traffic zone.

Laminate Flooring

A less expensive option, laminate flooring simulates wood with a photographic image of wood sealed on top of dense fiberboard. Laminate comes in a variety of wood patterns, from oak to maple to pine. It’s usually easy to install because most products allow you to float the material over another flooring surface. That makes it ideal for quick upgrades.

Pergo Outlast+ Vintage Pewter Oak laminate flooring
Pergo Outlast+ Vintage Pewter Oak laminate flooring

Best: Pergo Outlast+ Vintage Pewter Oak LF000848 (Home Depot)
Price per square foot: $3
CR’s take: Resistant to stains, scratches, and foot traffic, Pergo’s Outlast+ Vintage Pewter Oak earns impressive scores across all our tests. It has a lifetime warranty that promises the laminate surface will not wear through and that the floor won’t fade from exposure to sun or electrical lighting.

Runner-up: Home Legend Textured Oak Angona HL 1224 (Home Depot)
Price per square foot: $2.80
CR’s take: This flooring earns a rating of Excellent for its resistance to foot traffic and scratches in our tests, and holds up to prolonged UV exposure. It doesn’t stand up to dents very well, so it might not be best for kitchens, where there’s a chance you might drop a pot or pan.

Vinyl Flooring

Usually made of flexible PVC, vinyl flooring comes in squares or planks that can made into floating flooring or glued into place, or sheets that need to be glued down (by a pro). Vinyl flooring comes in hundreds of looks—woodlike, stonelike, and woven appearances, to name just a few.

Armstrong Vivero D10 Homespun Harmony Rugged Brown vinyl flooring
Armstrong Vivero D10 Homespun Harmony Rugged Brown vinyl flooring

Best: Armstrong Vivero D10 Homespun Harmony Rugged Brown U1042
Price per square foot: $4
CR’s take: This vinyl option, which comes in planks, performs well in all our tests. It resists foot traffic, scratches, stains, and dents. There really isn’t a negative to note. It’s also easy to install, allowing you the option of floating it over an existing floor or affixing it with adhesive.

Runner-up: Congoleum DuraCeramic Sierra Slate SI74 Golden Greige
Price per square foot: $5
CR’s take: For those interested in a vinyl floor with the look and feel of stone, the Congoleum DuraCeramic Sierra Slate SI74 Golden Greige is a good choice. It earns a rating of Excellent in our foot traffic and scratches tests. It doesn’t achieve the same high marks for dent resistance, so it might not be right for certain spaces.

Porcelain Tile Flooring

A type of ceramic tile, porcelain tile can look like marble, stone, hardwood, or handmade tile. It easily resists foot traffic, scratches and stains, but porcelain can dent, crack or chip if hit by a heavy object. Be warned if you’re considering porcelain tile for your kitchen: It’s hard on your feet when you’re doing a lot of cooking, though you could consider using a cushioned mat to provide a bit of relief.

SnapStone Beige porcelain tile
SnapStone Beige porcelain tile

Best: Lumber Liquidators Avella Brazilian Cherry 10043950
Price per square foot: $3
CR’s take: With high marks across the board, this porcelain tile has the look of Brazilian hardwood without the high cost—which means you could have a wood-look floor in a bathroom or kitchen without worrying about moisture. Like most porcelain tile, this needs to be installed by a tile setter in a bed of mortar.

Runner-up: SnapStone Beige 11-001-02-01
Price per square foot: $8
CR’s take: Although most porcelain flooring calls for a subfloor (and pro installation), this runner-up from SnapStone happens to be DIY. You install it by joining each tile to the next with plastic tabs, then securing tiles with a proprietary flexible grout from the manufacturer. It earns a rating of Excellent for resistance to foot traffic and scratches, and doesn’t show much fading in CR’s UV tests.

5 Easy DIY Weekend Projects Under $300

“So you’ve thought about sprucing up your home, but you don’t want to spend a ton of money, and you would like it to be a DIY project.  Well, look no further…”

Denise Buck & Ed Johnson – DC Metro Realty Team

Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this.

Copyright 2018 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®

How to Clean Your Air Conditioner’s Condensate Drain Line

“OMG…If only we had been following these tips in the past.  Please take a look at how to do this and avoid a clog with water everywhere.”

Denise Buck & Ed Johnson – DC Metro Realty Team

Taking the time to clean your air conditioner’s drain line (or the condensate line) can have a great positive effect on how efficiently your system runs. Here’s how to quickly and safely prevent problems with your unit.

 

If you’ve ever taken a good look at your air conditioning unit, you may have noticed a small dripping line on the outside. This is the condensate drain, which plays an important role in removing condensation produced by your air conditioner’s evaporator coil. If the line isn’t properly cleaned, algae and mold can grow inside and clog the drain, causing elevated humidity, musty odors and water damage inside your home.

Unfortunately, this part of the system is often overlooked during regular A/C maintenance. Even HVAC technicians may forget to clean the drain during a regular service call, which means that it’s up to you to check and clean the condensate pan and drain line before a problem develops. Cleaning the line will remove clogs and blockages and prevent algae and mold from growing.

Looking to purchase a home warranty plan, view:
– What is a Home Warranty
– Compare Home Warranty Coverage
– See what Home Appliances are Covered

You will need these items to clean your A/C condensate drain:

  • Rags
  • A wet/dry vacuum
  • Distilled vinegar
  • A funnel

 

How to Clean Your Air Conditioner Drain

1. Turn off the power to your HVAC system at the thermostat and at the breaker.

2. If you have an indoor air handler in your attic or utility closet, you’ll need to find the condensate pan. This is usually located directly under the unit. It may also be covered by a removable access panel.

3. If you see standing water in the drain pan, your drain line is probably clogged. Use a handheld or shop vacuum to remove the moisture. You can also use rags to soak up the water. At this point, you can clean the drain pan with soap.

4. Generally, clogged drains can be cleared with suction. If you have a shop vacuum, use it to pull the clog through the drain opening, which is located outside your house near the foundation. Place your hand around the pipe to improve suction and allow the vacuum to run for a minute. Then, check the vacuum canister to see if the clog was successfully removed.

5. Next, you’ll need to identify the access point on the drain line. Usually, the drain will have a T-shaped vent with a PVC cover. Remove the cover and inspect the drain. Use this port to flush the drain with distilled vinegar. If you don’t like the odor, you can use peroxide to gently bubble away the remaining debris. Alternately, you can use hot water and a drop of dish liquid.

6. Allow the solution to sit for 30 minutes. Complete the cleaning by flushing the pipe with water. Have a helper watch the pipe outside and tell you if the water is running freely.

If you don’t have a shop vacuum, you can use a piece of surgical tubing to free the blockage. Know that this method doesn’t work well if your drain line has sharp turns that are prone to clogs. If your system doesn’t have an access vent, use the opening on the edge of the drain pan. This fitting can be removed to improve access.

Underlying problems with the system can also be responsible for compromised water flow. If the pan and drain line aren’t slightly tilted, water can build up in the back of the pan and will eventually overflow. Many newer systems are equipped with overflow sensors installed within the pipe.

If you’re unable to clean your air conditioner’s drain line, call a local professional. They can clean the line and install an access vent, if necessary. Check the drain line periodically throughout the cooling season to ensure that condensation is being removed properly.

Routine maintenance steps like checking your drain line can help keep your air conditioner running more efficiently. If you find that your system is in need of repair, remember that an American Home Shield Home Warranty could help protect your budget from costs associated with getting your unit back on track.

4 Ways to Erase Ugly Scratches From Wood Floors

“Now that you’ve finished your Spring Cleaning you’re realizing there are some scuffs and scratches on your hardwood floors.  What’s the best way to take care of them?”

Denise Buck & Ed Johnson – DC Metro Realty Team

Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this.

Copyright 2018 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®

To-Dos: Your June Home Checklist

“Summer is almost here (June 21st) and there are always things to get done in preparation for the warmest months of the year.  Take a look and see which items might make a big difference in your enjoyment.”

Denise Buck & Ed Johnson – DC Metro Realty Team

 

Protecting Your Patio Furniture: Steps for Maintenance and Cleaning

“Thinking it’s time to get some new patio furniture?  Learn how to care for and protect it for years of enjoyment.”

Denise Buck & Ed Johnson – DC Metro Realty Team

After a few seasons of exposure to the elements, your patio furnishings may start showing their age. Most outdoor fabrics and finishes are tough enough to stand up to the wear and tear of many sunny days and stormy nights, but regular maintenance can go a long way toward extending their lifespan. Here are some quick tips on how to protect your outdoor furniture.

Related:Patio Heaters– Which One Is Right For You?
protect patio furniture

Before You Get Started

Familiarize yourself with your furniture’s care guidelines. The manufacturer’s instructions will usually specify which cleaning solutions to use and which ones to avoid. Applying the wrong products or cleaning using improper methods could damage your furnishings and void any existing warranties.

Wicker Furniture

Wicker will fade and crack if exposed to too much harsh sunlight. Cover your wicker furniture when not in use. Covering also helps prevent mildew from working its way into the cracks and crevices between individual wicker fibers.

When cleaning wicker, avoid harsh or abrasive treatments. A mixture of water and mild soap is best. Apply sparingly — do not soak wicker. Rinse and wipe dry with a clean, lint-free cloth. If necessary, vacuum the wicker first with a brush attachment to remove large debris and loose dirt.

Wood Furniture

Seal your wood patio furniture. The sun’s ultraviolet (UV) rays can discolor wood and weaken its integrity. A coat of sealant will also make the wood more resistant to moisture. Sealants and stains must typically be reapplied every one to three years of outdoor use.

When sealing (or resealing) wood, first clean it. Dissolve the manufacture’s recommended amount of powdered oxygen bleach in one gallon of hot water. Do not use chlorine bleach on wooden surfaces. Apply and scrub any areas affected by mildew with a soft-bristle brush. Rinse with clean water and dry thoroughly. Finally, apply a clear, water-repellent sealant or a penetrating semitransparent wood stain. If desired, you can purchase a sealant (or stain) containing a mildewcide or mix in a mold- and mildew-resistant additive of your own.

Metal Furniture

Clean metal surfaces with a simple, mild soap-and-water solution. To restore your metal furniture’s luster, take a lint-free cloth and buff it with auto wax (paste or liquid). Lubricate any stiff or creaky moving parts — such as casters, swivels, glides and umbrella mechanisms — using a silicone spray.

If your metal furniture is showing signs of rust or mold, use a fine-grit sandpaper to sand any problem areas. Touch-up with matching paint, applying it in several thin layers. Let each coat dry completely before applying the next.

Weatherproof Outdoor Furniture

Now that your outdoor furniture is spick and span, you can keep it looking that way longer by applying an outdoor furniture protector specially formulated for your type of furniture (wicker, wood, vinyl, metal, etc.). Some protectors can be sprayed on, while others will need to be applied with a brush. Look for protectors that are both water-repellent and UV-resistant. Apply thoroughly, but be sure to work in a well-ventilated area while wearing the proper safety equipment: goggles, gloves and a dust mask or respirator.

Protect The Upholstery

Spot cleaning is the best method for cleaning outdoor upholstery. Use a mild detergent diluted in cold water and attack any stain using a sponge rather than a brush. Try to avoid soaking the cushions and allow them to air dry completely. Mildew loves moisture. If you store your cushions during those portions of the year when you seldom enjoy your patio, avoid using plastic bags. Try wrapping them in an old bed sheet or a canvas painter’s tarp. The fabric should be able to breathe even if it has been moved to an outdoor storage bin or shed.

Finally, to combat fading and discoloration caused by the sun’s UV rays, apply a fabric protector to your upholstery at the beginning of the warm weather season.

Store It Carefully

Cover your patio furnishings in waterproof furniture covers when not in use and especially when inclement weather threatens. To prevent your patio from becoming a place where standing water might accumulate, remove your furniture’s foot caps and keep all items upright in order to facilitate proper drainage.

Originally Published by American Home Sheild

Pick the Perfect Paint Sheen for Every Room

“Painting can make a huge impact on a room, but did you realize that the Sheen you pick can as well?  See what Consumer Reports has to say.”

Denise Buck & Ed Johnson – DC Metro Realty Team

Light and traffic are just two things you should consider

There’s a lot more to choosing an interior paint than picking a color. You have to consider the hues of the furniture and flooring, and the amount of light a room gets makes a difference, too. Picking a paint that’s too shiny can reflect too much light, and one that’s too flat might appear dull.

MORE ON PAINT
Hottest Interior Paint Colors of 2018
How Long Does Leftover Paint Last?
4 Easy Fixes for Interior Painting Mistakes
Find the Right Exterior Paint Color

It’s the paint sheen, or finish, that affects how the color appears. And that depends on whether it absorbs light or reflects it. In addition, for paint to hold up well over time, it has to be durable enough for the surface and the situation.

Here is Consumer Reports’ guide to paint sheens from the least to most shiny, and a breakdown of which ones work best in particular parts of the house.

Flat and Matte

Flat paint has a nonreflective finish and matte is low luster. A paint brand usually offers one or the other. Both help hide imperfections on the surface. “But these finishes are the least resistant to stains,” says Rico de Paz, the engineer who oversees CR’s tests of paints and stains. “And although many did well in our mildew-resistance tests, the other finishes generally performed better.”

Best uses: Ceilings, living rooms, bedrooms, and anyplace with little wear and tear or where messy splatters are uncommon.

Eggshell and Satin

For a softer look, choose eggshell. “Satin is slightly shinier, and both are easier to clean than flat or matte paint,” says de Paz. You’ll find that some paint lines offer both eggshell and satin. These sheens tend to accentuate surface imperfections, so take time prepping, getting the walls as smooth as possible. Scrape away cracked or peeling paint with a metal putty knife. And use it to remove bumps, dried-on paint, and the raised edges around nail holes.

Best uses: Eggshell can be used in the family room, living room, bedrooms, and hallways. Satin works well in those rooms, too—anywhere, really—and in the kitchen, dining area, children’s bedrooms, bathrooms, and hallways. Many satin finishes are tough and can be used on both walls and trim.

 

A matte/flat paint sheen
Semigloss paint sheen
Satin/eggshell paint sheen
Semigloss paint sheen

Satin/Eggshell: Great for High-Traffic Areas

The easy-clean satin finish is ideal for places where there’s lots of activity, such as family rooms, entries, and hallways.

PHOTO: TRIA GIOVAN/GAP INTERIORS

Semigloss

“The most lustrous of this group, semigloss paints typically resist stains better than the other finishes and are easy to clean,” says de Paz. Very smooth surfaces are a must.

Best uses: Trim, windows, and doors. For walls that are in great condition, consider semigloss for a kid’s room, the kitchen, and bathrooms if you don’t mind the shine.

Best and Worst Paints

Our Paint Buying Guide is a good primer, and see our interior paint ratings of 21 lines. Prices range from $17 to $70 per gallon—and paying more doesn’t necessarily get you a better paint. Because years of testing showed us that a paint line’s various finishes perform similarly overall, we’ve combined the scores into one to make it easier for you to shop.